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IT FEELS ALRIGHT
The Great Escape music festival in Brighton, England is well known
for headlining new music. Not to mention the fashion statements.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY LISA JOHANSSON AND DALIA NASSIMI
WRITTEN BY JAMES TREGASKES
The Brits love a trip to the seaside. If there’s one destination that epitomizes bygone days of summer spent on pebble beaches and building sandcastles, it’s Brighton. Nestled on the South Coast, it’s crumbling Victorian Piers was the place where the Mods and Rockers clashed during the sixties and where fashionable people still choose to spend the weekend.
During the month of May this city by the sand, aptly nicknamed ‘London-by-Sea’, welcomes a special sort of pleasure seeker. Imagine South by Southwest hops on a boat, picks-up some hot new English songsters en route, add a splash of American talent and you have The Great Escape Festival. It’s Europe’s leading event for new music. With fifty-eight international bands across thirty-six venues our ears and eyes were given a sensory overdose that we’re still recovering from.
With bands galore it’s no surprise this is where the music industry takes a convenient ‘work trip’ and hunts down new talent to sign up. There was certainly no shortage of fresh acts to sign this time around. The Locarnos kicked off proceedings on Thursday and to say they were a ‘ferocious live act’ would be an understatement. Next stop Glastonbury for these talented boys from the West Country. The Invisible are a band we’d seen once before in a tiny East-End boozer and who inspired rather a lot of booty shaking on that occasion. A three-piece band mixing soul and funk, they’ve got our vote for sound of the summer and didn’t disappoint in Brighton. The Norwegian band Casiokids’ live set at Po Na Na was so packed with punters we could hardly breathe and the proof was in the pudding. They mix electro samples with live instrumentals and vocals and the crowd went crazy for it. There’s been a significant gap in British music since the demise of The Libertines and Official Secrets Act might just fill their vintage brogues. This stylish trio, who we bumped into queuing to buy a parking ticket, are Brighton boys born and bred. With a punchy set at their gig we saw first hand the inventive, energy-filled tunes those in the know had been telling us about.
We knew the American’s wouldn’t be able to resist a jump over the pond so it was a fine thing to see the Atlanta four-piece band, Black Lips, on the line-up. The self-described ‘flower-punks’ were like a band of misbehaving school kids as we tried to shoot them. Hockey were high on our list of bands to check out. These Portland boys have plenty of buzz for their rock and roll eclecticism. Already hailed as ones to watch for 2009 by almost every music journalist worth his AAA pass, The Temper Trap, four boys from Australia, blew our ears off with their passionate delivery of songs. It seemed very apt that Swedish trio Peter, Bjorn and John should partake in a little fun by the beach, what with a hit track titled ‘Young Folks’. Their performance went down well at Concord 2 on Saturday night in Brighton.
It wasn’t just the boys that got a look in, there was plenty of girl power! Blackpool might be Brighton’s arch rival in the seaside stakes but Little Boots was quite happy to leave her allegiances behind for one night and end the festival on a high note. Imagine Madonna and Goldfrapp having a lovechild and Little Boots would be it. Her pop-friendly electro-sampled beats are a gig goers dream and this girl has done good alright. Whilst she might take a small shoe size her voice is definitely a size twelve.
And let’s not forget the fashion. From the bands to the festival patrons, everyone had a sartorial statement to make. When we were shoulder to shoulder sweating it out in an underground club or a former dance hall it was clear to see from the fashion who was a Great Escaper. With rolled-up skinny jeans in the mode of Thom Browne, lace-up Vans, deck shoes, more Barbours than the Royal Family can shake a stick at and the obligatory plaid shirt, the kids looked the part.
-JAMES TREGASKES
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OUR SWORDS
PHOTOGRAPHED BY CAMERON KRONE
FASHION EDITOR MICHAEL BARGO
Model: LARS AT FORD
SPREAD ONE:
Lost Art NYC fur shawl, Tom Ford waistcoats,
What Comes Around Goes Around vintage boxers,
Julian Louie custom helmet, stylist’s own rings.
SPREAD TWO:
LEFT: Tom Ford shawl, Lost Art NYC crocodile cape,
What Comes Around Goes Around vintage boxers,
stylist’s studio satin skirt and floral headpiece.
RIGHT: What Comes Around Goes Around vintage boxers,
stylist’s studio satin skirt and floral headpiece.
SPREAD THREE:
LEFT: Lost Art NYC fur shawl, Yves Saint Laurent
jacket, What Comes Around Goes Around vintage
boxers, Julian Louie custom helmet, stylist’s
own rings. RIGHT: Lost Art NYC private collection
shawl, Prada coat, Julian Louie custom helmet,
Eddie Borgo necklaces.
SPREAD FOUR:
LEFT: Tom Ford waistcoat, What Comes Around Goes Around
vintage belt, Bangally African Expo silver arm bands, stylist’s
studio satin toga and floral headpiece.
RIGHT: Tom Ford linen blazer and satin waistcoat,
What Comes Around Goes Around vintage boxers, vintage chain mail,
Cara Croninger necklace.
SPREAD FIVE:
LEFT: Prada double breasted jacket, Tom Ford waistcoat,
What Comes Around Goes Around vintage boxers,
Julian Louie custom headpiece, stylist’s own silver collar,
Eddie Borgo bracelet. RIGHT: Lost Art NYC private collection fur shawl,
Tom Ford tuxedo jacket, What Comes Around Goes Around vintage boxers,
Eddie Borgo necklaces, Bangally African Expo silver arm bands.
SPREAD SIX:
LEFT: Thom Browne coat, What Comes Around Goes Around
vintage boxers, Cara Croninger resin necklace,
Eddie Borgo silver necklaces, stylist’s studio satin
toga and floral headpiece. RIGHT: Stylist’s studio satin toga,
What Comes Around Goes Around vintage boxers,
Thom Browne fur hat, Yves Saint Laurent belt, Tom Ford scarf,
Eddie Borgo necklace.
SPREAD SEVEN:
LEFT: What Comes Around Goes Around vintage Thierry Mugler dress,
Julian Louie custom helmet, stylist’s own silver collar.
RIGHT: Tom Ford velvet tuxedo jacket, Eddie Borgo silver necklace,
Cara Croninger resin necklace, stylist studio satin toga and floral headpiece.
Grooming: Eric Polito at Community NYC
Photo assistant: Maciek Jasik
Fashion Assistants: Julian Louie and Lucy Cobbs
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AVALON
Photographed by Leon Mark
Fashion Editor: Mathew Stevenson-Wright
SPREAD 1
Rag & Bone pullover, Ksubi shorts, floral
sheet photographer’s own.
SPREAD 2
Tim Soar shirt, Prada Sport shorts, Birkenstock sandals.
SPREAD 3
LEFT: Emporio Armani swimsuit, Rufskin shorts.
RIGHT: Rufskin swimsuit. Necklaces and
bracelets worn throughout by Chronicles
of Never. Blackstar necklace worn throughout
stylist’s own. Gold ID bracelet worn
throughout stylist’s own.
SPREAD 4
LEFT: Tim Soar knit top, Azzolini Shorts.
RIGHT: Armani top worn around waist, American Apparel shorts.
SPREAD 5
LEFT: James Long top.
RIGHT: Tim Soar jacket, Citizen
Seven trousers.
SPREAD 6
LEFT: Rufskin top, Azzolini swimsuit,
RIGHT: Azzolini swimsuit, Chronicles of
Never tank.
SPREAD 7
LEFT: Calvin Klein tank, HOM shorts.
RIGHT: Prada Sport tank, Nom*D shorts.
SPREAD 8
LEFT: Woollen hat by Nudie Jeans,
Calvin Klein top, Ksubi shorts, stylist’s
own leggings, Birkenstock sandals.
RIGHT: Kenzo knit top, Blaak Homme trousers.
SPREAD 9
LEFT: CK Calvin Klein t-shirt, Tim Soar trousers, stylist’s own belt.
RIGHT: James Long shorts, Rufskin jock strap.
SPREAD 10
LEFT: Rag & Bone pullover, Ksubi shorts.
RIGHT: Woollen hat by Nudie Jeans, James Long top, HOM shorts, stylist’s own cuffs.
FASHION assistant: Anthony Munis
MODELS: Jack Shaw at Select models and Stefan Bostock at models 1
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LE FREAK C'EST CHIC
Photographed Colin Lane
Fashion Editor: James Worthington Demolet
SPREAD 1:
NICK
LEFT: Komakino vest, Reem ostrich feather dress, Dior Homme trousers.
RIGHT: Thomas Engel Hart sweater.Cherry Vintage chain braces.
SPREAD 2:
ERIK
Erik Andrew Bergrin coat, Roberto Cavalli trousers,
Eddie Borgo chain necklace, Badgley Mischka
Rhinestone Necklace.
SPREAD 3:
RANDY
LEFT:Robert Geller trousers, Erikson Beamon Rhinestone necklace and cuff,
Trash & Vaudeville spiked cuff, Eddie Borgo chain bracelet.
IAN
RIGHT:Calvin Klein collection suit, Badgley Mischka Necklace, Model’s Own Briefs
SPREAD 4:
JAKE
LEFT: Odyn Vovk top and vest, Jennifer Behr custom design headband.
TAKASHI
RIGHT:Inbar Spector jacket, Tripp trousers, Model’s own jewelry.
SPREAD 5:
ANDREW
Pudel Blazer and plaid shirt, Endovanera black top, Miaden-Art zipper pull necklace,
Cherry vintage large chain necklace, Ben-Amun small chain necklace, Model’s own jeans.
SPREAD 6:
JAKE
LEFT: Calvin Klein collection suit, Robert Geller t-shirt, Odyn Vovk Mask, Bing Bang necklace.
ERIK
RIGHT:Erik Andrew Bergrin Coat, Roberto Cavalli trousers, Eddie Borgo chain necklace,
Badgley Mischka rhinestone necklace.
SPREAD 7:
ZEPH
LEFT: Dior Homme jacket, Eddie Borgo pendent, Models own jeans and shoes.
RIGHT: Erik Andrew Bergrin coat, Ben-Amun rhinestone necklace, Eddie Borgo spiked chain necklace.
SPREAD 8:
ANDREW
LEFT: Pudel blazer and plaid shirt, Endovanera black top, Miaden-Art zipper pull necklace,
Cherry Vintage largechain necklace, Ben-Amun small chain necklace, Model’s own jeans.
ERIK
RIGHT: The Blondes corset, Odyn Vovk hoodie, Leviticus multi-cross necklace, Sequin
multi-strand necklace.
SPREAD 9:
ANDREW
Alexander Wang leather vest, Julius tank, Leviticus bat necklace, Lee Harkness Shirt Co. collar, Sequin earring.
SPREAD 10:
RANDY
LEFT: Calvin Klein Collection shirt, Komakino shorts, La Crasia Gloves, Sequin earring and necklace,
Model’s own shoes.
TAKASHI
RIGHT: Inbar Spector dress
SPREAD 11:
TAKASHI
Inbar Spector dress, Pudel top, Falke socks, Dior Homme shoes.
RANDY
Erikson Beamon necklace
Hair: Raymond McLaren at Agency Papillon for Stephen Knoll
Make-Up: Samantha Trinh at Atelier Management
Casting: James Worthington DeMolet at Atelier Management
Casting Assistant: Pernilla Löfberg
Fashion Assistant: Jessica Bobince
Models: Andrew D’Angelo, Erik Andrew Bergrin,
Ian Leverich, Jake Boyle at DNA, Nick W. at Re:Quest,
Randy Lebeau at Fusion, Takashi Goto, Zeph O’Hora.
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THE MAYOR OF MOTT ST.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MATTHEW SANDAGER
FilmMaker and designer Alexander Olch explores the charming streets of Nolita
and easily navigates the worlds of film and fashion.
In a daring feat of defiance, Orson Welles once responded to questions about his foresight into the results of 1938’s infamous The War of the Worlds broadcast by stating “it came rather as a great surprise to us”. 71 years later, Alexander Olch finds himself with the same sense of personal surprise. His collection of fine linen, silk and cotton neckties has quickly become de rigeur for cool boys and financiers alike, standing next to Martin Margiela and Thom Browne in hip shops like Opening Ceremony and United Arrows. In 2005, Olch’s red seersucker model was featured in The New York Times Style Section as the Father’s Day tie to gift. Not bad for an endeavor that began as an idea for souvenirs for the crew of Olch’s senior thesis film.
Olch admits that the collection “started as an accident”. Soon fellow classmates who were graduating to banking jobs in New York were clamoring for his neckwear, which roots itself in a classic prep-school aesthetic while being thoroughly modern in proportion and material. “We grew very organically from that,” Alexander states over lemonade at McNally Jackson, an independent bookstore just blocks from his Mott Street apartment. A quick glance at the sharp point on his knit tie feels fresh and modern. It’s no wonder that men are spreading his name with fervent abandon.
A magna cum laude art graduate from Harvard University, Olch is now ready to prove himself at his first love, filmmaking. His debut The Windmill Movie, saw its premiere at the New York Film Festival and is being readied for a June 17 release at New York’s Film Forum. National and HBO screenings follow shortly after. Like his foray into fashion, this project was accidental. When Olch took over a friend’s Nolita apartment seven years ago, he found himself living blocks away from the wife of his Harvard mentor Richard Rogers, who was planning to produce Olch’s first film before his untimely passing. A chance request by Rogers’ wife to have Olch inspect the late filmmaker’s broken editing machine revealed a treasure trove of footage which Rogers had shot over twenty years.
The personal nature of the found footage allowed Olch to build a meta-documentary of Rogers’ conflicted interior and enviable exterior. “One of my favorite things to do when I was younger was going to thrift shops for clothes, objects...anything. In a way this film is very much that. Its going through all of these dusty old boxes of film and making something new,” says Alexander. What he assembled is the portrait of a man who lived in the polarizing realms of artistic self-doubt and a monied, intellectual upbringing straight from the pages of F. Scott Fitzgerald.
It’s no wonder that Olch counts Orson Welles as an inspiration. It’s the same type of cross-disciplinary success and old world charm that makes Olch such a strikingly modern man. Making a fleeting glance at his Blackberry while sipping a lemonade (no straw), Olch coolly gives the impression that the little black device with which so many New Yorkers have replaced brain function, is just a utilitarian device. He mentions, “A man’s elegance is derived not so much from the ways in which he decorates himself but the things that he uses.” Gentlemen, take note.
The Windmill Movie will show June 17-30 at Film Forum, NYC; June 17 at Sag Harbor Cinema, Sag Harbor, NY; June 26 at Laemmle’s Sunset 5, Los Angeles, CA; University Town Center 6, Irvine, CA
http://www.windmillmovie.com
Alexander Olch accessories available at United Arrows, Opening Ceremony, Bergdorf Goodman and www.alexanderolch.com
-Michael Scanlon
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